The Hamakua Coast stretches about 45 miles from Hilo north to the Waipi’o Valley Lookout, tracing the Big Island’s green northeastern shore. Highway 19, known locally as the Hamakua Heritage Corridor, rolls past waterfalls, black rock coves, old plantation towns, and some of the lushest scenery in Hawai’i.
The route can be done in a few hours if you’re passing through, but it’s worth giving yourself a full day to slow down, wander small towns, and linger at the overlooks. Here’s how to plan your drive from our Big Island bed and breakfast.
Start in Hilo: Rainbow Falls and the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive
From Volcano Village, it takes about 45 minutes to reach Hilo. Leave early, and you’ll beat most of the day-trip traffic heading up the coast.
Rainbow Falls at Wailuku River State Park drops about 80 feet into a wide pool, and on sunny mornings, you can often spot a rainbow in the mist. Parking is easy, and the viewing platform is a short walk from the road.
From Hilo, head north on Highway 19 and watch for the turnoff to the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive, a 4-mile loop sometimes called the Onomea Scenic Drive. This narrow side road cuts through dense rainforest and over narrow wooden bridges before rejoining the highway. It’s a slower drive, but the canopy of banyan trees and glimpses of Onomea Bay make it worth the detour.
Waterfalls, Gardens, and the Lush Heart of the Hamakua Coast
The middle stretch of the Hamakua Coast holds some of the richest scenery on the drive. This is where the waterfalls get taller, the gardens get wilder, and the views start to pile up.
Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve and Garden
Set along Onomea Bay, the Hawai’i Tropical Bioreserve and Garden is home to more than 2,000 plant species from the tropics. A boardwalk trail winds through orchids, palms, and heliconia down to the coast, with benches tucked into the greenery.Akaka Falls State Park
A short drive inland from the small town of Honomu, Akaka Falls State Park is one of the most visited waterfalls on the island. The paved loop trail is less than half a mile and leads to a viewing platform for Akaka Falls, which drops 442 feet into a gorge lined with ferns. You’ll catch a side view of Kahuna Falls, about 100 feet tall, along the way. The walk is shaded and easy, making it a good stop for travelers of all ages.
Pop into Honomu on your way back to the highway. The old plantation town has a short main street with a handful of shops, a bakery, and cold drinks. It’s a handy spot for a quick snack before the next leg of the drive.
Botanical World Gardens and Umauma Falls
A little farther north, Botanical World Gardens offers another look at Hawaiian flora, plus views of the tiered Umauma Falls. The gardens have zipline tours and short walking paths, so you can spend as much or as little time here as you like.
Coastal History at Laupahoehoe Point
About halfway up the coast, a side road drops down to Laupahoehoe Point. The park sits on a finger of black lava that juts into the Pacific, with crashing waves, tidepools, and shaded picnic tables. It’s a popular lunch stop.
Laupahoehoe carries a tender history. On April 1, 1946, a tsunami struck the shoreline and claimed the lives of 24 students and teachers from the local school. A stone memorial near the shore honors them. Up at highway level, the Laupahoehoe Train Museum tells the story of the sugar era and the railway that once ran along this coast, a good stop for anyone curious about the region’s past.
Honoka’a Town and the End of the Drive
Honoka’a is the last real town on the route and one of the most charming stops on the Hamakua Coast. The main street is lined with wooden storefronts from the sugar plantation era, many now home to small shops, galleries, and family-run restaurants. The Honoka’a People’s Theatre still hosts films and live events, and Tex Drive Inn on the edge of town is famous for its malasadas.
From Honoka’a, Highway 240 carries you the last few miles out to the Waipi’o Valley Lookout.
© Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / Ben Ono
The Best for Last: Waipi’o Valley
At the end of the drive, the road opens up to one of the most striking views on the Big Island. From the Waipiʻo Valley Lookout, you can take in the full sweep of the valley below, a black sand beach at the shoreline, the winding Wailoa Stream cutting through the valley floor, and steep green cliffs rising thousands of feet on either side.
Waipiʻo has long been a place of deep cultural significance, once home to Hawaiian royalty and still considered sacred today. Even from above, there’s a quiet, expansive feeling here that tends to slow people down.
Access into the valley is currently limited to local residents, permitted tour operators, and those practicing traditional Native Hawaiian rights. Visitors are asked to enjoy the view from the overlook and not attempt the descent, out of respect for the community and the road’s unstable conditions. Check current updates with the County of Hawai’i before your trip.
Return to the Quiet of Volcano Village
After a full day of ocean views, waterfalls, and small town stops, the drive back to Volcano Village offers its own rewards. The temperature drops, the mist begins to settle over the hapu’u ferns, and the road winds back through the rainforest as the sounds of the coast fade behind you.
Back at Volcano Village Lodge, you can settle in by the fireplace, step into the hot tub under the stars, or simply enjoy the quiet of the rainforest from your private lanai.
Book your stay and let our rainforest sanctuary be the starting point for your next Big Island adventure. Whether you are chasing waterfalls or seeking the quiet stillness of the trees, your private retreat awaits.